Some times you need just a little bit of firepower to finish the job, or a fast option. Or you just don't have the points for a full size tank left. The Forge Fathers Hultr Half-Track fits right into that sweet spot.
This has actually been available since GenCon - but I haven't seen anyone showing it off (but you know that wouldn't stop me anyway :-) ).
Of course, getting it from the kickstarter it isn't commercially packaged - though I expect it will be identical because it just all comes in a single bag. Being a tank, it doesn't have a base.
Opening the bag there are 13 parts - this is made of the newer plastic that they are using for some of the larger deadzone models - meaning it needs superglue but isn't as fragile as resin. I did find a bit more flash left on these than other models, but it was easy to clean off.
There is one pair of parts that you need to pay attention to because there is such an exact fit to them. These go on the front and hold the front wheel.
As you can see, they didn't quite fit out of the baggie.
Of course a little hot water and it fits much better. Definitely check and fix this.
However, this isn't the first thing to put together. It turns out that it seems there is a very specific order to assemble the front end - if you do it in the wrong order (yes, this is from experience) (that is my job here - to screw things up so I can tell you how NOT to) it is MUCH more difficult.
So the first thing to do is take the bottom of the front end, and attach it to the body. This is also a very tight and exact fit.
The next pieces are the front 'struts' of shock or supports or whatever. You can see what they look like even if I can't name them. I did find that in my first model, I got two right ones instead of a right and a left one - I will let Mantic know and expect them to get out a replacement very quickly (I have always found this before).
There is a notch on the body that fits the end of the shock. The nub fits into the slot, and the indentation faces upward.
Next drop the front wheel into the notch in the front ends. They made this so you can leave the wheel loose so it rolls. Cute, but the treads don't move so there is no reason not actually glue it in.
Now you put the top of the front end on. There are several points where it attaches. It holds the front wheel in (if you don't glue it), and fits into the struts (so there are basically 7 points it connects).
The front armor then fits into the slot on the body, and connects slightly behind the top piece
I reversed the armor and put it upside down on the body to show the parts that connect.
You have to slide down a little bit and it sort of clicks in.
Then there are two small side armor plates that attach - these only fit one way.
Of course I forgot to get pictures of just the armor plates attached, but you can see them in all the rest.
Next come the treads - these only fit one way - the right side has a tab facing upward, and the left a tab facing down.
And you are complete except for the weapon, of which you have two options. The Twin Hailstorm Autocannon which is good suppressing troops, or the Magma Cannon - to take out other tanks.
The autocannon comes in two pieces. The barrel fits easily (and only one way) onto the turret.
I decided (or more accurately, couldn't decide which I wanted yet) to magnetize the weapons, which was quite easy. I cut a small piece of tin (this is the same tin I use in my bins (with magnetic bases) to hold all my armies).
I then glued it inside the body (which is hollow, so very easy).
You want to make sure you don't get glue over the actual hole in the top of the body.
Then I simply glued a 1/4" neodymium magnet to each of the weapons. I have a bunch of these from when I used to make wound markers for my multi-wound MFB models.
Make sure you let this glue set, as if you put the weapon on the vehicle too soon the magnet may break the bond (not a problem once it has fully set).
So a little work fitting the front end, but otherwise very easy to assemble.
Now on to the BIG vehicles.
Because it is all fun and games . . .
Of course, getting it from the kickstarter it isn't commercially packaged - though I expect it will be identical because it just all comes in a single bag. Being a tank, it doesn't have a base.
Opening the bag there are 13 parts - this is made of the newer plastic that they are using for some of the larger deadzone models - meaning it needs superglue but isn't as fragile as resin. I did find a bit more flash left on these than other models, but it was easy to clean off.
There is one pair of parts that you need to pay attention to because there is such an exact fit to them. These go on the front and hold the front wheel.
As you can see, they didn't quite fit out of the baggie.
Of course a little hot water and it fits much better. Definitely check and fix this.
However, this isn't the first thing to put together. It turns out that it seems there is a very specific order to assemble the front end - if you do it in the wrong order (yes, this is from experience) (that is my job here - to screw things up so I can tell you how NOT to) it is MUCH more difficult.
So the first thing to do is take the bottom of the front end, and attach it to the body. This is also a very tight and exact fit.
The next pieces are the front 'struts' of shock or supports or whatever. You can see what they look like even if I can't name them. I did find that in my first model, I got two right ones instead of a right and a left one - I will let Mantic know and expect them to get out a replacement very quickly (I have always found this before).
There is a notch on the body that fits the end of the shock. The nub fits into the slot, and the indentation faces upward.
Next drop the front wheel into the notch in the front ends. They made this so you can leave the wheel loose so it rolls. Cute, but the treads don't move so there is no reason not actually glue it in.
Now you put the top of the front end on. There are several points where it attaches. It holds the front wheel in (if you don't glue it), and fits into the struts (so there are basically 7 points it connects).
The front armor then fits into the slot on the body, and connects slightly behind the top piece
I reversed the armor and put it upside down on the body to show the parts that connect.
You have to slide down a little bit and it sort of clicks in.
Then there are two small side armor plates that attach - these only fit one way.
Of course I forgot to get pictures of just the armor plates attached, but you can see them in all the rest.
Next come the treads - these only fit one way - the right side has a tab facing upward, and the left a tab facing down.
And you are complete except for the weapon, of which you have two options. The Twin Hailstorm Autocannon which is good suppressing troops, or the Magma Cannon - to take out other tanks.
The autocannon comes in two pieces. The barrel fits easily (and only one way) onto the turret.
I decided (or more accurately, couldn't decide which I wanted yet) to magnetize the weapons, which was quite easy. I cut a small piece of tin (this is the same tin I use in my bins (with magnetic bases) to hold all my armies).
I then glued it inside the body (which is hollow, so very easy).
You want to make sure you don't get glue over the actual hole in the top of the body.
Then I simply glued a 1/4" neodymium magnet to each of the weapons. I have a bunch of these from when I used to make wound markers for my multi-wound MFB models.
Make sure you let this glue set, as if you put the weapon on the vehicle too soon the magnet may break the bond (not a problem once it has fully set).
 |
| Hultr Half-Track w/ Twin Hailstorm Autocannon |
 |
| Hultr Half-Track w/Magma Cannon |
Now on to the BIG vehicles.
Because it is all fun and games . . .
Awesome, looks like a more complicated kit than the Drakon or Tunnel Runner which are remarkably simple.
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