Wednesday, October 28, 2015

A Tourneying we go

It feels like I haven't run anything in such a long time, even though Gencon was back in August.

I ran the first 2nd edition Kings of War tournament in Ohio this past Saturday (Oct. 24th).  Armies clashed, dice were rolled, and a great time was had by all.

A great turnout : Dave Baker, Donny Harville, Bill Robertson, Kara Brown, Jason Herald, Roger Connor, Jason Moorman, Chris Whitehead, Jesse Cronwell, Daniel Payne, Keith Ambrose (Beth Hill not pictured)
I wanted to try something different this time, so each player brought in a terrain piece, and then they all had to pick three pieces to use during the tournament (they could not pick the one they brought). I thought it might make the tables a bit different instead of all of them trying to be similar and balanced.

We started off a little late, but managed to catch up and ended on time!  The shop can comfortably hold twelve players (we can squeeze in four more by combining low tables), so it was perfect that we had 12 players.  Nine of the twelve people who came walked away with prizes as well.  Plus the shop managed to sell both copies of the hardback book - so it was a success all around.

Round 1 (Invade) under way!
Round 1 was an Invade scenario.  In addition to the standard victory, each round had individual objective points that could be earned regardless of winning or losing.  For this round, we used a messenger setup - each player got a free messenger model for their army.  These allowed the players to score additional tournament points for :

  • 1 point – Move your messenger off your opponents long table edge.
  • 1 point – Route the enemy messenger.
  • 1 point – Routing an enemy hero.  If your opponent has no heroes then you automatically get this point.
  • 1 point – Route your opponent’s highest cost non-hero unit. (If multiple units with the same cost, any counts)
  • 1 point – Control a terrain feature on your side of the table.


I have always found that the closest games were always the most fun, but tournament games tended to be so much an 'all or nothing' setup - where regardless of the scenario played you also needed to table your opponent to get maximum points.  I really dislike this, so have my point system set one a 30 to 10 scale.  20 pts each for a tie, 25 and 15 for a victory, and 30 - 10 for a major victory (basically doubling the  victory conditions - so in Invade you win if you get 10% of the battle more units across the center line (200 pts), a major victory would be 20% (i.e. 400 pts).  This is the max score you can get, so it does not encourage you to crush your opponent, and hopefully have closer, more fun games.
Kara v. Chris round 1

David v. Roger round 1

Bill v Jason H. round 1

Dan v Beth round 1

Keith v Jesse round 1

Jason M. v Donny round 1
Between the first and second rounds was a lunch break, as well as appearance judging.  Appearance has two components - a base score (up to 20 pts) that should be easy to achieve that is part of the full tournament score, plus additional points for more detailed work that go toward the best appearance award.  So here are the armies, and the lists.

Kara Brown - Basileans
Men at arms Horde w/ spears
Paladan Foot Guard Regiment w/ Amulet of Thorns
Penitents Troop
Elohi Regiment w/ Brew of Haste
Elohi Regiment w/ Blessings of the Gods
Paladin Knights Horde w/Potion of the Caterpillar
Sisterhood Panther Lancers Troop
High Paladin on Griffin w/ Blade of the Beast Slayer
Priest on horse w/Bane Chant
Phoenix

Chris Whitehead - Ogres
2x Ogre Warrior Regiment
Ogre Warrior Horde
Berserker Braves Horde w/ potion of the caterpillar
Shooters Horde w/ brew of keen-eyeness
2x Boomers Regiment
2x Red Goblin Scouts Regiment
Army Std Bearer w/ Blade of Slashing
2x Army Std Bearer
Giant

Roger Connor - Orcs
Ax Horde
Morax Regiment
Greatax Regiment
Orclings Horde
Troll Horde
2x Gore Rider Regiment
Krudger on Slasher w/ Ensorcelled Armour
Flagger w/Healing Charm
Godspeaker
Giant
War Drum

David Baker - Ogres
2x Ogre Warrior Regiment
Berserker Braves horde w/ Helm of Confidence
Siege Breakers Horde w/ Potion of the Caterpillar
Shooters Horde w/ Brew of Keen-eyeness
2x Red Goblin Scouts Troops
Warlord w/ Ensorcelled Armour
Captain
Mammoth
Giant

Beth Hill - Kingdoms of Men
Foot Guard Regiment (2H weapons), w/Brew of Haste
Heavy Pike Block Horde w/Brew of Strength
Bowmen Regiment
Crossbowmen Troop w/ Jar of the Four Winds
Knights Regiment w/ Helm of Confidence
2x Mounted Scouts Troops
Mounted Sergeants Regiment
3x Cannon
General
Army Standard Bearer w/ Healing Charm
Wizard (Lightning Bolt, Bane Chant) w/ Amulet of the Fire-Heart
Beast of War (ballista)

Daniel Payne - Undead
2x Skeleton Spearmen Regiment
Skeleton Archers Horde w/ Brew of Keen-eyeness
2x Revenant Troop
Wraiths Regiment w/ Amulet of Thorns
Xombie Legion (Undead giant Rats) w/ Brew of Courage
Revenent Cavalry Regiment w/ Brew of Sharpness
Revenent Cavalry Regiment w/ Blessings of the Gods
3x Undead Army Std Bearer
4x Necromancer (Bane Chant)

Keith Ambrose - Elves - 4th
Palace Guard Troop
Glade Stalkers Troop
Glade Stalkers Regiment w/Fire-Oil
Sea Guard Horde w/brew of strength
Hunters of the Wild Troop
Forest Shamblers Regiment
Forest Shamblers Horde w/Brew of Haste
Stormwind Cavalry w/ Brew of Courage
Elven Mage (Bane Chant, Fireball)
Elven King w/ Quicksilver Rapier
Master Hunter
Tree Herder

Jesse Cronwell - Ogres
Red Goblins Horde w/ brew of Keen-eyeness
3x Warriors Horde
Siege Breakers Regiment w/ Blessing of the Gods
Siege Breakers Regiment w/Chant of Hate
2x Boomers Regiment
2x Red Goblin Scouts Regiment
Army Std Bearer w/ War-bow of Kaba
Army Std Bearer w/ Kevinar's Flying Hammer
Army Std Bearer w/ Blade of Slashing

Jason Moorman - Elves
Sea Guard Horde
Palace Guard Regiment
Stormwind Cavalry Regiment w/ pipes of terror
Stormwind Cavalry Regiment
2x Drakon Riders Regiment
2x Gladestalkers Troop
Dragon Lord w/ Ensorcelled Armour
Army Std Bearer w/Diadem of Dragonkind
Army Std Bearer w/ Kaba's Holy Hand Grenades

Donny Harville - Ogres
Warriors Horde (2HW) w/ Chant of Hate
Warriors Horde w/ Brew of Courage
2x Warriors Horde
Boomers Regiment w/ Heart Seeking Chant
Chariots Regiment w/ Brew of Strength
Warlord w/ Brew of Haste
Captain (2HW) w/ Boomstick
Army Standard w/ Ensorcelled Armour
Warlock w/ Inspiring Talisman
Red Goblin Blaster

Jason Herald - Twilight King w/ Ogre Allies - 11th
Spearmen Horde w/ Brew of Sharpness
Crossbowmen Regiment w/ Heart Seeking Chant
Reaper Guard Regiment
Blade Dancer Regiment w/ The Fog
Dark Knights Regiment
2x Twilight Bolt Thrower
Dark Lord on Black Pegasus w/ Diadem of Dragon kind
High Priestess of the Abyss (bane-chant) w/ Amulet of the Fire Heart
Ogre Warriors Horde w/ Chant of Hate
Chariot Regimetn w/ Helm of Confidence
Army Std Bearer

Bill Robertson - Ogres w/orc allies
Ogre Warrior Horde w/ Warbow of Kaba
Berserker Braves Horde w/ Blessing of the Gods
Seige Breakers Horde w/ Dwarven Ale
Boomers Horde
Warlock (Fireball) w/ Amulet of the Fire Heart
Grokagamok
Giant
Ax Regiment
Trolls Horde
Troll Bruiser w/ Onyx Ring


Round 2 (Loot) gets going
Round two was the Loot! scenario.  Additional tournament points could be scored for:
  • 1 point – Have your lowest cost non-hero unit survive the game (if multiple, then you must pick one before the game starts).
  • 1 point – Route your opponent’s highest cost non-hero unit. (If multiple units with the same cost, any counts).
  • 1 point – Completing a rear charge with a non-individual unit during the game.
  • 1 point – Have a unit pass a route check because of a re-roll due to the “Inspiring” rule during the game.
  • 1 point – Control a terrain feature on your opponent’s side of the table
Donny v Keith round 2

Dan v Kara round 2
Dan manged to pull off a win against the reigning US Champion - to which Jesse replied that he would be insufferable to drive with back home to West Virginia.

Roger v Bill round 2

Dave v Chris round 2

Jason M. vs Jesse round 2

Beth v Jason H round 2

and Round 3 (Kill) getting started.  Trying to show all six tables (three in the foreground, one off to the right, and the last two all the way at the front of the shop in the back of this shot.
For the final round, we went with a simple Kill! scenario (people are tired, so try to make it easy for them).  Additional tournament points could be earned for:
  • 1 - 3 points – Control a non-hill terrain feature (forest, wall, swamp, ruin or building).  This is the same as controlling objectives, and only solid units can control one
  • 1 point – Route opponents lowest cost non-hero unit (if multiple, then any count)
  • 1 point – Routing an enemy hero.  If your opponent has no heroes then you automatically get this point.
David v Jesse round 3

Beth v Keith, round 3

Dan v Roger, round 3

Jason M v Bill, round 3

Donny v Kara, round 3

Jason H v Chris round 3
And the Winner is:  Roger Connor, with Orcs.  He received a $50 gift certificate to the store.


2nd Place ($25) went to Jason Moorman who played Elves.  Jason also won a $10 gift certificate for having the best terrain piece

Kara Brown took a $25 gift certificate for best appearance as well.

Jesse Cornwell 'won' a new set of dice to help him place better next time.  In addition to these prizes (which were from the entry fees for the tournament), Mantic also provided prize support that was raffled off to the non-prize winners - including a Warpath Forge Fathers Army box, Warpath Enforcers Squad, Enforcers Heavy Weapons Squad, Elf Archers, Undead Archers and Basilean Crossbows!  So nine out of twelve people took home more in prizes than the tournament cost them - not bad.

Time to start planning the next one!

Hobby Shop 10/24/15

Place Name Army Total Opponents Battle Paint Terrain Players Choice Favorite Opponent Attrition Additional Painting Best Appearance Awards
1 Roger Conner Orcs 132 David Baker, Bill Robertson, Daniel Payne 102 20 5 5 4850 7 32 Best Overall
2 Jason Moorman Elves 118 Donny Harville, Jesse Cornwell, Bill Robertson 88 20 5 4 1 3360 10 34 2nd Place / Best Terrain
3 Kara Brown Basileans 112 Chris Whitehaed, Daniel Payne, Donny Harville 84 20 5 2 1 4545 8 30 Best Appearance
4 Keith Ambrose Elves 92 Jesse Cornwell, Donny Harville, Beth Hill 65 20 5 2 3225 9 29
5 Beth Hill Kingdoms of Men 92 Daniel Payne, Jason Herald, Keith Ambrose 66 20 5 1 2720 5 25
6 David Baker Ogres 89 Roger Conner, Chris Whitehaed, Jesse Cornwell 71 17 1 3680 5 22
7 Donny Harville Ogres 81 Jason Moorman, Keith Ambrose, Kara Brown 64 17 3860 4 21
8 Daniel Payne Undead 77 Beth Hill, Kara Brown, Roger Conner 72 3 2 3730 0 3
9 Bill Robertson Ogres 77 Jason Herald, Roger Conner, Jason Moorman 60 17 3595 7 24
10 Chris Whitehaed Ogres 67 Kara Brown, David Baker, Jason Herald 41 20 5 1 2305 9 30
11 Jason Herald Twilight Kin 56 Bill Robertson, Beth Hill, Chris Whitehaed 52 3 1 2955 2 5
12 Jesse Cornwell Ogres 49 Keith Ambrose, Jason Moorman, David Baker 43 3 3 3035 3 6 New Dice

Monday, October 26, 2015

Loads of Want

Pictures of the November Kings of War releases are out
Abyssal Dwarf Supreme Ironcaster on Great Winged Halfbreed
Ogre Hunters (Retailer Exclusive)
Elf Dragon Kindred Lord

Elf Dragon Kindred Lord Close up
Undead Zombie Trolls Regiment (Retailer Exclusive)

Orc Godspeaker (Retailer Exclusive)

Ogre Chariot Regiment

Uncharted Empires (Retailer Exclusive)

Monday, October 19, 2015

All about that base, 'bout that base

My very first Mantic purchase was an Abyssal Dwarf army (as was my second - because once I started reading the pre 1st edition rules I realized I didn't have enough in the one box).  I started a Mantic blog to talk about it and post pictures (that blog is now just links to this one - go figure).  One question I got quite a lot was how I did the volcanic bases for my figures.  I thought I'd right up an article, so took pictures of every step.  Two years later (actually getting close to three from the first half) I figure I need to write up SOMETHING.  If you want to see pictures of the entire army - they are here.
Finished single black soul on magnetic magma base.
Yes, I do hear Dr. Evil's voice when I do work on these bases.

No, Mr. Powers, I expect them to die.  Even after they pay me the money... I'm still gonna melt every city on the planet with liquid hot magma.

So first thing is the base.  You can actually use any base, even multi-basing with this.  In fact I find it works even better with multi-basing.  When I first did my units, all the sides fit to look like one big base - and then once the figures were removed from their movement tray, I have not been able to get them back in the same order since :-).

Anyway, All my bases (even when multi-basing) are magnetic.  This model used one from Gale Force 9, however I no longer use them and MUCH prefer the bases from Shogun Miniatures - they are cheaper, cleaner, require no preparation and half the thickness (plus they are easily available in any size you want - they will make custom base sizes for you)

I use 1/4" thick cork.  I get a pack of three tiles from Wal-Mart and they will last for years.  I tear them into rough shapes, and use super glue to affix them to the base.  I try to make sure there is room for the figures feet as well :-).

Next I spread some thinned out PVA glue (i.e. Elmer's or similar white glue) on the top of the cork, and then dip it in sand.  This gives it a nice rough texture to the volcanic rock.

So here is an Abyssal Dwarf blacksoul with a 2 handed weapon.  Blacksouls models are basically just dwarfs with either metal heads or metal helmet toppers (like this one).

Next, I cut off the circular base from the figure.  I've heard some people use a jewelers saw - I use clippers (because I don't care about the base as it is getting thrown away anyway).  I clip around each boot, leaving two tabs on the bottom of the boots, which are then easy to clip off without damaging the boots at all.

One thing that is required when removing the build in base is to pin the model to the new base.  The bottoms of the boots just don't have enough surface area - and can just get glued to the sand and then easily pop off.  Pinning the feet to the base give a bit more to hold on to, and glues the model not just to the top of the sand, but to the cork and plastic base beneath as well.

I used to use brass rod (Gale Force 9 used make a nice pinning set with a pin vice, bits and rod that matched them.  Privateer Press makes one as well (link) - this is the type of pin vice that I have (with a nice attachment to fit your hand that is free to spin)), however I ran out and was not able to find any locally - but at the local story (The Hobby Shop) they had cheap bunches of steel rod that I found instead, and anymore I won't go back to brass for most of my pinning.  Steel is stronger, but it does take stronger clippers to cut (I have a nice pair of needle nose lineman's pliers I use).  DO NOT use the clipper you use for your plastic sprues - at best it will dull it, at worse it can break or actually indent it because plastic clippers are not made for steel.

One advantage of steel pins is you can use them to mark where you need to drill, especially in things like cork.  So I place the figure, then drill for the pins down into the plastic base.  Then super glue the figure with the pins to the base.

Next up, priming.  I use a flat black primer (I like Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover for this). Some people prefer to put any sand on the base just before they paint it.  I always do it first, as the spray primer will lock the sand in place.  If I don't, then I keep getting sand coming off the figure until I do get it painted.  (For my Beech Boyz I have half the models based on sand (i.e. on the beach).  Four years later, I still find sand on the table after playing games with them.


I paint the figure before the base, because I know I will always end up slopping some paint onto the base.  So after painting the mini, I use flat black to cover any spots on the base.  Then I do a heavy drybrush of 72.050 Cold Grey.  All the paints I used for this are from the Vallejo Game Color line - they are my preferred brand of paint.

Then I do a second drybrush of 72.049 Stonewall Grey

And a final drybrush of a 50-50 mix of Stonewall Grey and 72.001 Dead White.

This is the ash that the model is standing on.  For the magma below, I first use 72.009 Hot Orange

I then use 72.008 Orange Fire in the center, leaving a bit of the Hot Orange exposed on the edges

The same thing is done then with 72.006 Sun Yellow, leaving both the oranges exposed.

In order to add a little depth to the base, I also do a light drybrush of the Sun Yellow on the edges of the ash that are next to the magma - thus giving them a slight glow.

A tiny bit of 72.001 Dead White in the middle of the yellow finishes the magma.

I've gone through various ways of edging my bases, but lately I much prefer simple black edges on everything to 'frame' the model.  This is the last and final step.

And the finished mini - from the back.

So this is how I've made all my volcanic bases.  My son keeps saying he things I should put a gloss coat over the magma because he doesn't like it - and I might someday.  Also if you have larger bits of magma, you might consider some type of bubbles in it (I remember seeing this in a tutorial on painting Magmatrax, a Golden Daemon winning model.   I don't plan on every trying to achieve what he did, but then I also am NEVER going to spend 400+ hours for a single model)

Because it is all fun and games...